Four days in, and I’ve learned that the Surfline forecast is not very specific to Uluwatu — it’s only regional, and spots are based on very crude models. The 4–6ft day was overhead waves with double overhead on select sets. The 2–3+ ft days ended up being head to slightly overhead, what would be 4–6ft in Santa Cruz. Each swell so far was at least 6ft and between 10 and 15 seconds period. Plenty of energy to have fun, but the crowd got pretty wild with all surfers feeling very comfortable.
After a break day, the next day brings a new swell of 9ft at 16s, modeled to produce 6–10ft waves. I plan to get there at sunrise to beat the crowd and get there before the swell is in the full swing. The tide is low though — would it work? All the resources say it works on any tide, just at different places…
Stairs down…all businesses are still closed…the tide is low…which to my surprise makes it much easier to get out — just walking on the reef and then the current takes me out quickly. Hm, there is only two other guys out. Suspicious. Waves are breaking far out — at the Outside Corner and at the Bombie…Well, they look fairly soft though, and I know it’s very deep where they break, and the current sucks me out — seems safe to try — when if not today?
I paddle to the local peak, turn around, let’s commit — don’t do anything stupid — no problem if you fall in this fat wave — paddle — press the nose (something I learned waaaay to late I now realize — watching surfers at Uluwatu on big but fat waves really press their noses — father up than their chest — makes them glide down instead of letting the wave through) — I’m gliding down — but slowly because the wave is so fat — plenty of time to pop up — I’m up! — whoa! What do I do now? — gathering speed on the way down — wait a second — I can’t do the pumping on this wave — it’s just to big — it does not work — alright let’s try the bottom turn — aha! — but the speed is much higher than I’m used to, so I’m trying to just hold on for the ride — the wave reshapes — it somehow has two slopes and a little flat in the middle — ftf! — turning to the top — top turn yeehaa — and turn out…wait a second…I made it! Does it mean I can surf big waves now???
Paddle back to the peak, looks like a perfect wave right a way, turn, don’t even paddle, press in — let’s go! Another wave without a snag! Paddle back, another quick one — wow!
I’m getting tired at this point — should I paddle in — but there is still no people — let’s stay for a few more. Can’t find the peak. Maybe tide has shifted. A few failed attempts. Too far from the peak. The peak got pointier. I really should go in…Alright last wave…sitting…should I take this one…maybe…eh…nah…oh shit…it decided to take me…while I’m sitting on the board…that’s fine…no it’s not…the whitewater is so strong…I’m tumbled and the board hits my leg and my knee…oh shit…it hurts pretty bad…probably not broken but could be a deep cut and could be a vein. I should paddle back in quickly. Hurts bad. Flip the board — missing two fins — that explains it. I’m not sure how I feel about it — they were new and expensive but probably would have been even deeper cut if not for FCS2?
Paddle back to the peak nervously. The tide is still low. I did not exit on a low tide before. What’s the plan? Probably I don’t need to paddle around to get to the cave — paddle straight in now — but oh shit the waves are still big and the reef is very shallow — like a 1.5ft shallow where it breaks and sucks the water from — fuck — ditch the board — dive under — poof — ok, just a minor toss — grab the board — can walk on the reef now. Assess the leg — ok, not that bad, 3 1/3 inch cuts, but the one on the knee hurts bad — might have hit the bone, and it’s now bruising.
Walking out, leg in blood, oh well…”fotos, sir!?” Well yeah, at this point let me see what it all was for! Wow, pics are pretty rad! Save them, I’ll be back with less blood and more money! :)
Well, all in all, this was a huge success. I built up the confidence and learned a few lessons at a price of a new set of fins and some cuts that should be fine considering I’m spending 5 hours in the clean salty water per day.
Lesson 1: press the nose in, and pop up quick.
Lesson 2: don’t hesitate, either go or not, don’t just sit around — that’s the most dangerous; better to go on a wave and fall, than if the wave will fall you.
I think it’s time for a dragonfruit smoothie bowl and a cappuccino. At this point the tide got to medium, and more surfers are out, but the conditions are still a bit jumbled — the wind never really became offshore and the cross shore got stronger. Let’s go to the shop to pick up the new fins — tomorrow is supposed to be clean 5–8ft!
